RAFTING THE ROYAL GORGE

Trip Report - July 1996

by Marty Vyn Boennighausen


Arthur and I took a day off from landscaping Sierra Mojada last July, '96 and found ourselves exploring along the Arkansas River. To our delight, there were many rafting companies just waiting to take us on a thrilling ride on the white water. The first outfit we stopped at looked a little shaky, but the next one looked quite professional and well equipped. We stood on one foot and then the other, and finally got up the courage to sign up for the advanced Royal Gorge trip, the very next day. We had both rafted before, but not for many years. That night, back in our room at Hermit Basin Lodge, we wondered just what we had gotten ourselves into. We had visions of 20 foot waves and being flung out into freezing cold water, only to be washed away or under to who knows where! We were both too excited and anxious to sleep much that night.

We arrived at the outfitters early the next morning. We were given extensive instructions on safety and basic rafting techniques. There was lots of talk about what to do if you were thrown out of the raft! Since the water was unusually high, we were required to rent a wet suit for the day. I was so glad to have it on: five minutes into the ride, we hit the waves and were soaked for the day!

Our raft trip was from Parkdale to Canon City, popularly known as "The Royal Gorge" trip. This stretch of river contains the most challenging water on the Arkansas River. Our day was a continuous series of thunderous rapids. At high water the risk of capsizing is great. Even at ideal levels the Royal Gorge can be hazardous for rafts. There are numerous broken down foot bridges dangling dangerously close to the water.

A half mile below the Highway 50 Bridge, our knowledgeable rafting guide pointed out the rock forts and breastworks used by Rio Grande forces during the Royal Gorge war. Our rafting guide enjoyed telling us everything from the types of local birds to wonderful "war" stories about rafting all over the world.

We stopped along the shore of the river at a picnic spot for lunch. Talk was mostly about the "hardest part" coming up in the next stretch of river. We half joked about getting off now, but realized this was what we had come for.

Two miles beyond the bridge is the trickiest rapid, called Caretaker, named after the abandon house where the Canon City Waterworks caretaker once lived. This rapid consists of two drops, with the second one being about 4 feet. A half mile below Caretaker, is the Whitewash Rapid, the 2nd hardest rapid. Things were really moving now. We were truly riding the waves at an incredible speed, staying in control by reacting to the commands of our rafting guide. "Forward paddle, back paddle, all paddle, all rest!!" We were flung up in the air and back down again, paddling with all our might, hanging on to the raft so tightly with our legs. Again and again the waves rushed over us. There were hoots and howls and grins from ear to ear.

There is a second drop, and then calm for a mile before entering the Gorge. We waved frantically at the tourists who had ridden down the steep incline railway. Looking up at the Royal Gorge Bridge about 1,000 feet above us was truly awesome. Before we knew it, we were back in the bounding rapids, hearing our guide commanding "all forward". The last mile smoothes out enough to let everyone gather their wits, reflect on the days adventures, and just simply enjoy the magnificent Colorado mountains scenery.

Well, we made it and no one fell out this time. We started the trip as strangers and ended it as "best buds" promising to meet up again next year for another rafting adventure.