RAFTING THE ROYAL GORGE
Trip Report - July 1996
by Marty Vyn Boennighausen
Arthur and I took a day off from
landscaping Sierra Mojada last July, '96 and found ourselves
exploring along the Arkansas River. To our delight, there were
many rafting companies just waiting to take us on a thrilling
ride on the white water. The first outfit we stopped at looked a
little shaky, but the next one looked quite professional and well
equipped. We stood on one foot and then the other, and finally
got up the courage to sign up for the advanced Royal Gorge trip,
the very next day. We had both rafted before, but not for many
years. That night, back in our room at Hermit Basin Lodge, we
wondered just what we had gotten ourselves into. We had visions
of 20 foot waves and being flung out into freezing cold water,
only to be washed away or under to who knows where! We were both
too excited and anxious to sleep much that night.
We arrived at the outfitters early
the next morning. We were given extensive instructions on safety
and basic rafting techniques. There was lots of talk about what
to do if you were thrown out of the raft! Since the water was
unusually high, we were required to rent a wet suit for the day.
I was so glad to have it on: five minutes into the ride, we hit
the waves and were soaked for the day!
Our raft trip was from Parkdale to Canon City, popularly known as "The Royal Gorge" trip. This stretch of river contains the most challenging water on the Arkansas River. Our day was a continuous series of thunderous rapids. At high water the risk of capsizing is great. Even at ideal levels the Royal Gorge can be hazardous for rafts. There are numerous broken down foot bridges dangling dangerously close to the water.
A half mile below the Highway 50
Bridge, our knowledgeable rafting guide pointed out the rock
forts and breastworks used by Rio Grande forces during the Royal
Gorge war. Our rafting guide enjoyed telling us everything from
the types of local birds to wonderful "war" stories
about rafting all over the world.
We stopped along the shore of the
river at a picnic spot for lunch. Talk was mostly about the
"hardest part" coming up in the next stretch of river.
We half joked about getting off now, but realized this was what
we had come for.
Two miles beyond the bridge is the
trickiest rapid, called Caretaker, named after the abandon house
where the Canon City Waterworks caretaker once lived. This rapid
consists of two drops, with the second one being about 4 feet. A
half mile below Caretaker, is the Whitewash Rapid, the 2nd
hardest rapid. Things were really moving now. We were truly
riding the waves at an incredible speed, staying in control by
reacting to the commands of our rafting guide. "Forward
paddle, back paddle, all paddle, all rest!!" We were flung
up in the air and back down again, paddling with all our might,
hanging on to the raft so tightly with our legs. Again and again
the waves rushed over us. There were hoots and howls and grins
from ear to ear.
There is a second drop, and then
calm for a mile before entering the Gorge. We waved frantically
at the tourists who had ridden down the steep incline railway.
Looking up at the Royal Gorge Bridge about 1,000 feet above us
was truly awesome. Before we knew it, we were back in the
bounding rapids, hearing our guide commanding "all
forward". The last mile smoothes out enough to let everyone
gather their wits, reflect on the days adventures, and just
simply enjoy the magnificent Colorado mountains scenery.
Well, we made it and no one fell out this time. We started the trip as strangers and ended it as "best buds" promising to meet up again next year for another rafting adventure.